Sneak Peek: J.Crew Fall 2010 Collection

J.Crew debuted their Fall 2010 collection the evening of April 1st on the rooftop of legendary Milk Studios. So what pieces are expected to be must-haves?  Well, stylist/editor and apparent J.Crew muse Dianna Lunt has her eyes on the two-tone jackets and shoes.  What pieces appeal to you?

source/image: elle

FORECAST: Beauty Trends Fall/Winter 2010-11

On a beautiful fall evening in October 2009, the lovely ladies of Edelkoort Inc. and beautypress joined forces to host an invitation-only event at Edelkoort’s NYC headquarters, The Firehouse.

Attendees included representatives from Amazon Beauty, Bleu Magazine, Chantecaille Beauté, Erno Laszlo, Good Housekeeping, Givaudan, LashControl, LUSH, Marc Rosen, Meniscus magazine, MyBeautyBerry, Priti Nails, Scenterprises, WWD Beauty Biz, 3&Co., and more. Guests enjoyed apple cider and Bouké wines, and were then seated for two informative presentations:

First, beautypress founder Gabriele Fuchs, reported about the rapid growth and acceptance of beautypress by the editorial community.

Next, Emmanuelle Linard a leading trend expert and executive director of Edelkoort Inc., provided an inspiring look at beauty trends for Autumn/Winter 2010.
 

TREND UNION

FALL/WINTER 2010-11

 

“MONOLOGUE”

 
In a response to the economic downturn, we choose to slow down, take a very close look at our identity and re-assess our brands and products lines, as well as our manufacturing and distribution ways. We will scrutinize every step of our personal and professional behaviors and open our minds to different solutions to adjust to a new world in motion.

Weary of trying to create everything for everybody, accepting that we have diluted the quality of our merchandise into excessive production and scattered our skills in too many product lines, we strive to simplify it all.

We quiet everything down and we focus on the essence of our brands, the core of our lines, on the magical origins that attracted our customer base in the first place.



T-B, L-R: Brandi Halls of Lush, Camilla Barungi of African Moringa, Jen O'Holla of Lush, and Allie Leung of Lush; Kathryn Cusimano of Betty Confidential and Marianne Mychaskiw of Good Housekeeping; beautypress founder Gabriele Fuchs updating attendees on beautypress growth; Ragna Frodadottir of Edelkoort, Diana Tedesco of beautypress, and Emmanuelle Linard of Edelkoort

This concentrated state of mind becomes a MONO recipe to redefining a sustainable solution for reinventing and marketing our way ahead.

This mono-minded inspiration will apply to many categories of design. Distinct and focused beauty trends are identified for the Fall/Winter 2010-11 in this concentrated approach, where we will comply with sharper design choices, chosen references and accurate creative ideas. We will be assertive in our beauty looks, to make our seduction known in a distinct choice of color, brick red, all red, black, grey, metallic and more. Packaging materials and shapes will be adopted without hesitation, sustainable or eerie, decorative or minimalist, historical or futuristic, pure or passionate. Specialized brands and one-destination store will be elected by consumers who are restructuring their lifestyles and reinventing the way they shop.

To make sense, for now! Consider yourself now in the know ...
 
source: beautypress; Edelkoort

Redken for Yves Saint Laurent Fall RTW 2010 - It's All in the Details!

Religious symbolism for Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, Fall 2010?  Designer Stefano Pilati says no, however the black capes, the willowy head coverings, the gold chain pendants, all seemed to whisper something feeling a bit "nunlike".  Of course also present were garments nothing close to frocks Sister Mary Theresa would have hanging in the closet.  How about sheer black blouses showing boobies as an example.  Still, this collection is all about the detail ... and I'm loving that pink lip! (note to self: find out more about the beauty look ... yep)




Inspired by the refined, modern, elegant and bourgeois French woman, Redken Creative Consultant Guido created a stylized, sophisticated chignon with lacquered look around the front hair line. “At Yves Saint Laurent, we took a classic chignon and modernized it for this house; the key was using Redken hardwear 16 super strong gel along the hairline to give it that lacquered effect.” -Guido, Redken Creative Consultant

Products:

Redken hardwear 16 super strong gel

Redken forceful 23 super strength finishing spray

Create the look:

Pull hair into low ponytail, keeping the sides smooth

Wrap the hair in upon itself to create a flat chignon

Secure with pins and forceful 23 super strength finishing spray to hold

Along the front portion of the hairline, apply hardwear 16 super strong gel from the hairline to about 3 inches back

Finish with forceful 23 to create a very sophisticated, lacquered style

 

source/images: redken, style.com

Estee Lauder for Derek Lam's Urban Cowgirls Fall RTW 2010 - Love this!

EVERYTHING about this collection and its runway show is F-A-B-U-L-O-U-S! The outfits, the details, the shoes, the coats (OMG, the coats -- big this season, by the way, for many designers), Tom Pecheux keying makeup ... could hardly get much better. I'm in love with Derek Lam Fall RTW 2010, uh huh, yep, I am!

The collection is being nicknamed Urban Cowgirl or Wild Wild West, however Lam's muse was Julie Christie in the seventies film “McCabe & Mrs. Miller”. She played a British expat in the Robert Altman Western. So what we see is cowgirl style done ultrapolished and with a distinguishable European glaze. The structured outerwear, the coats, jackets and vests, proved a high point. Here, leather inserts added a cool edge while precise lines displayed architectural restraint.



The handbags, shoes, fabrics, and accoutrements ... must be seen! The use of leather, ribbed fabric, fur accents and fringe enhanced the western appeal with a sence of city-chic flair.



Believe it or not, Estee Lauder cosmetics made its New York Fashion Week debut backstage at Derek Lam. Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux (and all around cosmetics creative genius), who was named to CMD at EL in November, created a strong, monochrome eye using two metallic blue shades on the top lid and a metallic copper shade on the bottom lid. He chose to debut products from Estee Lauder's Fall 2010 collection for this show. He also applied Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in a shade called Midnight Blue, as well as the brand’s TurboLash All Effects Motion Mascara in Black.

“I’m playing with a dual color, covering the entire [eye] lid, from the lashes to the eye brow,” said Pecheux, noting that he combined a bright blue and a dark blue on the top lids — shades that were being tested backstage prior to their introduction this fall — and added an extra blue arc on the top of the lid to impart a feeling of power. The colors chosen complimented the colors in Lam's collection beautifully.

On the lips, Pecheux applied a product called Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Beige as a primer before the metallic copper shade used on the eyes was added, creating a matte finish. The use of the copper shade on both the eyes and the lips served to “balance out the entire face,” according to Pecheux, who added that he was inspired by an earthy American Indian with a look that was “twisted into a more urban woman.”

“The skin is a pretty, matte finish,” said Pecheux, adding that the idea was to have “respect for [models’] skin tone.” Cheeks were left virtually bare, given just a slight contour, he added.

Nails, which were done by Jin Soon Choi (yes, the same one who just did a collection for MAC) for Estée Lauder, were given a pale, very sheer pink color that was being tested backstage.



On the hair side, stylist Orlando Pita, who was working on behalf of Moroccanoil, said, “The look is more about texture — ethereal, airy [and] wispy.” The down dos featured parts to the side and in the middle of the head. “We talked about how the hair was going to move on the runway,” he said, “rather than any particular inspiration.”

To achieve the look, Pita employed a process of spraying the hair with Moroccanoil hair spray, then drying it and brushing it out. He repeated this process over and over until the hair on each model reached the desired amount of texture. Just before the girls hit the runway, their hair was “fluffed up,” said Pita.

Create the Look

EYES
Apply Double Wear Stay-in-Place EyeShadow Base to lids. Smudge Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Midnight Blue over eye area. Apply Pure Color EyeShadow in Nautical Matte over lid using a fluffy shadow brush to blend from lash to crease. Apply shade Ivory Box under brow to highlight. Buff out to soften. Then apply shade Amber Metallic along lower lash line in short, firm strokes to create a line of thick definition. Finish with TurboLash All Effects Motion Mascara in Black on upper lashes.

LIPS
Prime lips with your foundation to even out color and create a neutral surface. Apply Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Beige using a lip brush. Blot lips with tissue and pat Amber Metallic shadow to lips for the same effect from the show or finish with High Gloss in Bronze for a less dramatic look.

images/source: nymag, style.com, wwd, estee lauder

Lancome for The Row Fall 2010

The Row, the collection designed by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, had its Fashion Week debut yesterday at a gallery on New York’s west side. The line has earned a following for its simple yet sophisticated structured pieces and the new collection continued beautifully on that theme.

Makeup artist Aaron de Mey for Lancôme created the look around a strong, defined brow and a dewy facial complexion. “It’s about studying the architecture of the face,” he said. “Eyebrows are naturally defined, but slightly exaggerated.”

The neutral color palette meant that skincare played an important role. To prep, Aaron used Lancôme Eau Fraiche Douceur Micellar Cleansing Water and followed it with Lancôme Genifique Youth Activating Concentrate massaged generously into the skin; this duo gave each model a luminous complexion. Lancôme Le Crayon Poudre filled and defined the brows—a focal point of this look. To finish, Aaron dabbed Lancôme Effeacernes Concealer on the lips, a trick that removed the natural lip color and kept the focus squarely on the brows.

le vernis in Untamed Plum

Referring to the brows, de May said: “It’s individualistic, because every girl’s brow is different. It’s more noncosmetics-looking.” Everyone backstage and front of house were obsessed with the braided black Louboutin sandals made exclusively for the show. (a break for the models from the skyscraper heels!) Mary-Kate and Ashley chose a deep wine colored polish – Lancôme Le Vernis in Untamed Plum – for the toes, but kept the fingernails clean and shiny with a coat of clear nail polish.

Inspiration for the long, free-flowing strands of hair? That's right, you guessed it, Ashley and Mary-Kate themselves. Hairstylist Jimmy Paul for Bumble and Bumble ensured hair had a dry, non-sleek texture by working in a touch of Surf Spray and Thickening Hairspray with his hands and a blow-dryer. “It’s very flyaway with a little movement,” he said. To create some added texture, he either curled sections of the hair or pinned it in small bunches. After the curls and bunches were let loose, he used a bit of Tonic Lotion to “calm it down and kill the curl a bit.”

images: style.com, lancome-usa, wwd